Ok I've dusted off my Peterbilt 359 Black Magic to build ;D and had previously (read 24 years ago) brush painted some parts of the cab and chassis with humbrol enamels. What is the best way to remove this old paint and not damage the kit before starting over again.
All advice appreciated
Lionel 'Pat' Jennings IPMS (UK) #10383
Never underestimate the power of idiots in large groups.
I have heard that Mr Muscle oven cleaner does the job although I have never used it myself and another thread on here talks about soaking the offending article in thick bleach for a week or two. Sounds scary but apparently it works - why does the scene from Alien where the acid blood drips through the floor of the spaceship immediately spring to mind?
Hi pat , I use the Mister Muscle Oven cleaner , I put my hand into a plastic bag , place the model on the plastic bag and spray , then peel the bag over the model and seal , this way you do not come in contact with caustic spray . leave for about an hour , and reverse the method , place the model in an old washing up bowl and wash in warm water use an old tooth brush , hey presto a model as new. As always do this outside and wear eye protection . If you do get any oven cleaner on your skin then wash off imediatly cheers ian
i know at lot about nothing and nothing about a lot
Just to confirm - Mr Muscle Oven cleaner does work a treat. I have tried brake fluid before, it did sort-of work but a lot of scrubbing required.
Before you try these techniques, make sure you dab a spot on an inconspicuous place - just in case it attacks the plastic.
I tried both techniques on an old partially-painted kit today. It was painted with enamels - very thick and so old that the white paint was more cream than white colour.
The brake fluid was painted on and left for an hour or so - no effect (admittedly the last time I used brake fluid it I left it in a plastic bag for a few days). Mr Muscle started to move the paint within an hour (and I put the parts in a plastic bag which also helps). Paint started to come off with light scrubbing with an old toothbrush.
Interesting to see how different colours are affected. Gloss black came off first. Gun metal and "cream" next - the gold/brass colour is really stuck on and I am doing my third dose of Mr Muscle at the moment.
If you do find all the paint has not come off, scrub off as much as you can with the toothbrush (the bristles should be soft which os why people say use an old toothbrush), rinse with water and put on more Mr Muscle.
Now I have seen how well Mr Muscle works, I am going to redo another kit that I messed up the paint on.
I am not sure of the effect of Mr Muscle on different fillers or clear parts, or other modeling materials.
And, yes, put on gloves, don't get the stuff in your eyes, do not use the toothbrush again, and use in a well-ventilated area.
Hmm - the gold paint is very hard to shift - having to resort to a toothpick to scrape it off and still not managing to get it all off. I may try and paint over the old paint and see what it looks like.
Just in case - anyone have a more "nuclear" option I can try on the gold paint? Or should I just try Mr Muscle for a lot longer....
2 weeks in thick bleach will do the trick. It works for me.
IPMS 5703 - Rutland Branch & S.L.A.M. (ex-Bury St Edmunds & JHQ Rheindahlen) Harrier SIG (technical advisor) NASA & Beyond the Box SIGS (interested bystander) IPMS TAS Curator 1:1 scale military jets since 1974
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