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Post by bigredzed on Jan 25, 2009 17:27:35 GMT
Having returned to modelling after a few years and trying to get over my previous Airbrush disasters I have had another go.
Using some tips from other threads on the site I can now get a good even coverage of a decent quality !! Yippee....
I have read various info regarding masking on this and other sites and am unsure which way to go for best results on camo schemes.
Can anyone give me some tips on applying a camo scheme using an airbrush please?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2009 18:41:44 GMT
Hello Frazer and welcome to the forum. I noticed in your introduction that you modelled mainly aircraft, so there's a couple of techniques which you can employ for camo.
The first is to spray the aircraft in the main colour, and then map out the camo area which you don't want to spray using 'blutak', which is a low tack putty, removing the 'blutak' when you've finished spraying.
The second system is to use Humbrol 'Maskol' which is a liquid masking agent, simply brushed onto the model to the shape of the camo scheme of your choice, and painted where you don't wish spray to go.
The third system is a little harder and uses pieces of paper drawn to the camo pattern of your choice, and then held freehand slightly above the model you're spraying, it also gives a soft edge to the camo.
You can also use a low tack masking paper such as artists frisket, it's expensive in relation to the other systems but a roll can last years.
There are probably other systems which I'm sure other modellers will advise, based on their preferences, but the above are some of the systems I have used in the past.
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Post by neilscrim on Jan 25, 2009 18:48:55 GMT
For a soft edge camo scheme try masking with blu-tack. Roll it up into thin long lengths and lay it following the camo pattern. The tightness of the sprayed soft edge depends on what angle you spray in relation to the blu-tack. Tips I've found useful: 1) don't use very old blu-tack as it can get tacky and sticky 2) remove the blu-tak as soon as practical. 3) you can re-use the blu-tack but sometimes the chemicals in the paint can make the used blu-tack go a bit gooey, e.g. enamel thinners or cellulose. And of course, the number one rule when airbrushing, practice first before committing to your latest masterpiece
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Post by bigredzed on Jan 25, 2009 21:46:58 GMT
Thanks guys, Blu tac? would never have thought of that. Ill give it a go. So far I have airbrushed 2 kits, an F4 my son is building and on old frog Hornet kit Ive had lying around for years. I thought I would just master the spraying first which was a doddle when I realised what I was doing wrong on previous attempts!
I am using propellent cans and they get cold very quickly so I have stood them in warm water and got near perfect results so far! I might have to talk the Mrs into letting me get a small compressor.
I have hundreds of tins of Humbrol enamel to use up first so wont be using acrylic just yet but will progress in due course.
Thanks for the tips!
Frazer
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2009 21:54:34 GMT
Frazer, when you're ready to change up to a compressor, have a look at your local Machine Mart, their range is very competitive.
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Post by seb on Jan 26, 2009 8:16:19 GMT
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ptcruiser
Moderator
Car & Motorcycle SIG Leader
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Post by ptcruiser on Jan 26, 2009 9:03:34 GMT
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Post by bigredzed on Jan 27, 2009 15:50:50 GMT
Wicked little compressor that....Thanks Rich.
Ive managed to lay my hands on some frisket so will try that first.
Some great tips guys many thanks.
I will try n post a pic or two of the results.
One other thing I would like to have a go at is highlighting the raised detail like rivets etcand panel lines. Ive read that using cotton wool with some dirty thinners is one way, any other suggestions as I am a bit worried that the thinners will pull my nice paint finish off.....
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Post by neilscrim on Jan 27, 2009 18:18:00 GMT
If you're going to do washes (accentuating panel lines etc) you need a protective barrier between your wash and the paint finish. Most people use Klear. If you use an oil paint wash, use acrylic varnish (ergo Klear), if your wash is acrylic based use then use an oil based varnish, eg enamel varnish.
I always put a Klear coat on and then use a dab of oil paint with thiners as the wash, but you need only a tiny, tiny amount of oil paint.
For oil washes you need to use mild thinners. I've had the problem of a wash lifting the paintwork, even though I had a protective cover of Klear on top. MIG thinners is mild and specifcally designed for panel line washes. It certainly works for me.
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Post by bigredzed on Jan 29, 2009 1:56:36 GMT
What I really need is a spray on DOG repellent for my kits.
I went into the dining room this evening to investigate a cracking / crunching noise and low and behold...there is my damned dachsund eating my newly airbrush DH Hornet, that I spent hours masking and learning the black art of airbrushing on. and I thin,k got a good result.
Never mind 1/48 Phantom FGR-2 in 2 Sqn colours beckons now.
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Post by neilscrim on Jan 29, 2009 8:06:00 GMT
there is my damned dachsund eating my newly airbrush DH HornetIf it's not enough that the germans tried to shoot our aircraft down in WWII, they now set their dogs on our aircraft 60 years later...
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Post by bigredzed on Jan 29, 2009 13:23:01 GMT
I reckon there a plot brewing there.....................!! Its funny cos he left the BF109 on the table that was being "spruced up"....
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Post by Paul Senter on Feb 3, 2009 21:28:31 GMT
Big Red
A few other hints and tips to add to your masking library:
Try not use the blue blutac (i know it sounds odd but bear with me). There is a similar product called white tac which doesn't leave a greasy residue like blu tac does.
Also white masking tape is useful for large area masking.
When doing your camouflage schemes the best way i find is not to blanket the aircraft with one colour and then go over the top with the second as it leaves a small step between paints but to mask the aircraft and paint the first colour and then leaving a very slight overlap, mask for the second colour. Any small gaps can be touched up later.
Post it notes are also very useful particularly when you need to feather the demarcation line as the sticky bit is very low tack.
If you haven't yet, get some Tamiya masking tape. Comes in various widths (normally yellow) but is very low tack and perfect for a sharp line and for masking canopies.
Concur with the compressor - found mine indespensible because the canned air invariably runs out at the worst possible moment.
Heard good things about frisket film although never used myself. I also have a bottle of maskol that I find incredibly difficult to use so I tend not to. I have also heard of modellers using standard white pva glue. Its painted on - left to set and then painted over. Its similar to rubber solution glue and simply rubs off. again not tried it myself.
I tend to stick to tamiya tape, white masking tape and white tac if I need a soft edge. Trick with this is to find something that works for you and stick with it if you pardon the pun.
Paul
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Post by bigredzed on Feb 18, 2009 16:04:50 GMT
Thanks Paul,
Ive tried the friskett and it is Excellent. I also found some very flexible and very low tack white tape. Had some good results so far.
Ive invested in some Promodellers wash for the weathering , tried it on a tank kit my son is buildin. WOW brilliant stuff!
Getting ther slowly but surely. Many thanks to all for the hints and advice.
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Post by bigredzed on Jul 16, 2009 22:01:31 GMT
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