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Post by Redman on Feb 16, 2008 19:48:27 GMT
Hello, I am not new to modelling but I am resisting the move to an Airbrush. I have had some bad experiences in the past trying to spray models with a Badger 100. I did not have a compressor and had to use the aerosol propellant. I do use Tamiya and Humbrol aerosol cans when the colours are correct. I have just had an experience that has pushed me over the edge. I have just completed a Lockheed PV-1 I coated it with Kleer put the decals on and finished off all the last bits and pieces. The only thing left to do was to mask the canopies and spray a light coat of Humbrol matt varnish over the whole model. I did this and left it to dry. I came back to it 24 hours later to find out the varnish had turned to matt white. aaaargh! The varnish had bloomed and discoloured and left me with the option to re paint my PV-1. This does not fill me with glee. ps. I sprayed my newly completed A7 corsair II at the same time (camo Air force scheme) and yes that is now white. I am tempted to wang the two.........................................
I need to try the airbrush thing again, but the ventilation, mixing and cleaning fills me with dread.
Andrew
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Post by Biggles on Feb 16, 2008 19:57:48 GMT
Before giving up in despair, try brushing a thin coat of Johnson's 'Klear' over an area of 'bloom', and see if that has any effect. Using this technique, I have rescued three or four models where humidity and/or low temperature has caused the matt varnish to bloom.
Use the 'Klear' as it comes, and apply it with a wide (1/4" - 3/8") soft brush.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
HTH
Ian
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Post by Paul Senter on Mar 7, 2008 10:09:15 GMT
If the thought of mixing and thinning etc fills you with dread try using Vallejo Model Air paints. They are acryllics so clean up with water but they are formulated to spray direct from the bottle so there is no thinning required. Also because they are acrylics they dry very quickly and ass uch you can crack on pretty quickly.
As I said acrylics clean up very easily with warm water and the cleaning time between colours is very quick, all you need do is have a thorough clean at the end of the session to remove any hardened paint that may have dried.
This may sound like stating the obvious but the more you practice the easier it becomes.
Hang in there.
paul
Paul
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Post by merlin on Mar 7, 2008 15:23:11 GMT
when i wanted to learn thinning etc , i went to poundstretcher and they had some large tube acrylics for 50p so i bought some dark colours and went to B&Q and bought some screen washer and practiced . because it was all cheap i wasnt bothered about cost and practiced my line work etc to get used to my brush . try this way because these tubes are real cheap for practice
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zero
Sprue Cutter
Posts: 20
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Post by zero on Apr 20, 2009 23:14:09 GMT
Hello, I am not new to modelling but I am resisting the move to an Airbrush. I have had some bad experiences in the past trying to spray models with a Badger 100. I did not have a compressor and had to use the aerosol propellant. I do use Tamiya and Humbrol aerosol cans when the colours are correct. I have just had an experience that has pushed me over the edge. I have just completed a Lockheed PV-1 I coated it with Kleer put the decals on and finished off all the last bits and pieces. The only thing left to do was to mask the canopies and spray a light coat of Humbrol matt varnish over the whole model. I did this and left it to dry. I came back to it 24 hours later to find out the varnish had turned to matt white. aaaargh! The varnish had bloomed and discoloured and left me with the option to re paint my PV-1. This does not fill me with glee. ps. I sprayed my newly completed A7 corsair II at the same time (camo Air force scheme) and yes that is now white. I am tempted to wang the two......................................... I need to try the airbrush thing again, but the ventilation, mixing and cleaning fills me with dread. Andrew Hi Andrew Feel for you mate. this is a known problem with Airfix/Humbrol Spray varnishes (I bet it has a picture of a spitfire on the can!!!) been there got the same medal, I used it once and ruined a Airfix Spitfire Mk22/24 that when together like a glove, and was imaculate, not a filled seam alcad silver coated, it looked the mutts ..... one Airfix gloss varnish coat later, wrecked, don't use it, bin it. On the Airbrush front, I two dreaded using one, so much so that my wife bought me one for christmas and it sat in the cupboard for five years boy do I wish i used it sooner now, and I'll be honest, I could not live (or model) with out it now, in fact I have 2 Aztek Airbrushes, compressors, and altough I may change, the Azteks are more than up to the task. Swapping to an Airbrush was not easy but no major task either, and I have Ted Taylor to thank for a lot of advice, and helping me get over a few teething problems. However now I reach for my Airbrush over a normal one, and even paint small parts on sprue before using them. Combining your problem above, with Airbrushing. I now use klear to varnish everything. ie use it normally as a gloss varnish, I mix it with tamiya flat for matt, and satin finishes, ie 5% mix for satin, 20%/80% Klear mix for matt. it works a treat, and sprays like a dream if you want to look at some of my airbrushed models all the ones at the top of my picture site (above the Mossy, which was my first real Airbrushed model!) are do with an aztek Airbrush and a simple desktop compressor! www.picturetrail.com/zerosmodelsGood luck Dave
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zero
Sprue Cutter
Posts: 20
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Post by zero on Apr 20, 2009 23:27:25 GMT
Before giving up in despair, try brushing a thin coat of Johnson's 'Klear' over an area of 'bloom', and see if that has any effect. Using this technique, I have rescued three or four models where humidity and/or low temperature has caused the matt varnish to bloom. Use the 'Klear' as it comes, and apply it with a wide (1/4" - 3/8") soft brush. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. HTH Ian Sadly Ian I don't think this will work. This is a reaction between the paints, at a later date, Humbrol tried to get away with a sticker on the cans saying do not use to over coat enamel or acrylic paint. (well what are you suppose to use them on then!!!) I wrote a very unimpressed email to airfix, and got zip for the effort. Dave
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zero
Sprue Cutter
Posts: 20
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Post by zero on Apr 20, 2009 23:29:05 GMT
when i wanted to learn thinning etc , i went to poundstretcher and they had some large tube acrylics for 50p so i bought some dark colours and went to B&Q and bought some screen washer and practiced . because it was all cheap i wasnt bothered about cost and practiced my line work etc to get used to my brush . try this way because these tubes are real cheap for practice Water and simple food colouring can be used also to help you get used to the brush and get the hang of using the trigger to mix paint and air on dual action brushes. Dave
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Post by Loiner on May 26, 2009 9:37:53 GMT
... I came back to it 24 hours later to find out the varnish had turned to matt white. aaaargh! ... So I'm not the only one! I'd completed a squad of fifteen panzer-grenadiers complete with camoflaged uniforms, and with shading and highlights all complete, then sprayed with Humbrol matt varnish to finish .. half an hour later - .. I noticed that painting water over the white made most of it miraculously vanish, I thought I'd cracked it until the water dried and white returned, but I had a pot of Games Workshop matt varnish and brush painted that all over them, and that did the trick. Only the worst affected bits in some clothing creases remained but an hour of touching up sorted them out.
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MikeC
Moderator
Too many SIGs for my own good!
Posts: 804
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Post by MikeC on May 28, 2009 16:35:11 GMT
It's v. frustrating, but it does depend on the model. It happened to me once with a Soviet B-25J - with black undersides! - so I decided the model depicted it on a typical Soviet frosty day. ;D
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Post by Loiner on May 28, 2009 17:50:14 GMT
... - so I decided the model depicted it on a typical Soviet frosty day. ;D Pure creativity
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