polishing canopies

[Simon Cornes]

What is the best way to do this?
This is the scenario. Revel 1/72 Typhoon T1. Fine mould line down centre of canopy (external only). Stage 1 might be to scrape off with scalpel blade but then what, fine wet and dry? 1200 grade? toothpaste? polish with Duraglit?

Would appreciate an idea of current best practice and brand names. I see Johnson's Clear bandied about a lot - actylic varnish? paint it on or spary it? some say dip!!

[rhino]

My method is to use polishing pads working to 12000 grit, which will give a smooth finish, then plastic polish next, followed by dipping in Johnsons Kleer floor polish.
I would never recommend using toothpaste, as it can crack the plastic (speaking from experience here).
Several shops can sell you the polishing pads, i.e. littlecars.

[typhoon]

I totally agree with Rhino as to the process. I think Mastercasters also do a set of fine grade polishing sticks in increasing grades.

With Johnsons Kleer I would definitely dip, then wick away the excess by dragging the edge over a paper towel and then leave to dry (in a dust free box). If it doesn't work Kleer can be removed by dunking the part in household ammonia (the canopy that is not any of your parts!).

[bunthornesbride]

Micromesh will do the job, preferably used wet; remember to use each, successive, grade at rightangles to the previous. Never risk Duraglit, unless it's the wadding, even then take care. The base, for the liquid, is prone to attack plastic; Silvo is less dangerous.
Patience

[MikeC]

I use "Bare Metal" Plastic Polish. It comes in the same size and shape bottle as Micro Set/Sol, with a black lid. After using the finest grit W&D you can, polish it in with a soft cloth, just be careful not to crack the canopy.

Dipping in Klear/Future? Never got on with it, ended up looking like I'd splurged it on with a wallpaper brush then shaken a handful of dust on it, and yes I did take every precaution!

[The Detail Police]

This is my tried and tested method that doesn't require specialist modelling materials.

Remove the imperfection (in this case the mould line) with a finger nail polishing stick bought from a chemist. Use the three different grades of 'grit' with water as a lubricant. You can omit the first roughest grit if the imperfection is very minor.

Take some T-cut and apply to the canopy, then rub and buff with cotton wool pads.

Wash the canopy in water/detergent to remove any last traces of grease. Rinse, dry and lightly polish with a kitchen paper towel.

Wear thin rubber gloves for the polishing onwards, as your finger nails are hard enough to put marks on the polished surface.

Be careful when rubbing and buffing not to flex the canopy too much as you may get internal cracking.

[Lonewolf]

My method is to use polishing pads working to 12000 grit, which will give a smooth finish, then plastic polish next, followed by dipping in Johnsons Kleer floor polish.
I would never recommend using toothpaste, as it can crack the plastic (speaking from experience here).
Several shops can sell you the polishing pads, i.e. littlecars.

This is almost my exact method too. However I have fairly big paws and have broken more than one canopy with the effort required to hold it steady. Any suggestions anyone?

Also do you polish the frames right down cos otherwise you get no polishing right on the edges where the frames are?

Wolfie.

[The Hooded Claw]

A major hint is too always back fill canopies with Blutack to avoid cracking them

H

[cirikili]

like da man said.........fill the canopy with blu-tak or silly putty or U-knead-it.........(gives you a good working base and much less of a chance for cracking or damaging the canopy............

BMF's plastic polish is wonderful stuff........as is toothepaste (not the gel stuff).........i'm sure there are others, but anything that is recommended for plastic will work applied with a gentle and patient touch..........

there are the Squadron foam file boards, Micro-Mesh in either pads or plastic sheets and that new stuff from MasterCasters........

anything that starts at around 3,000 grit up to 12,000 grit........all wet and with each change in grit change the direction of movement across the affected area............and always wet......
then Future (Klear) it !!!!!!!!!!!!!

planning, practice, patience and perseverence............

there's also a GREAT !!!!!!!! "How To" in the current (Volume 29, number 3, page 170) issue of SAM on removing blemishes and polishing canopies...........

imo........the first one or two you might attempt might not seem like it's working.........but stick with it and it really does work.....

best 'o luck to ya