Handy tip for removing glue-fogging from canopies

[ao]

Thought I'd pass on a handy hint, saved a great deal of cursing today.

Canopy was saved by scraping the inner canopy gently with the chewed-end of a cocktail stick and then giving the inside a coat or two of Klear.

Phew, good as new. Best use PVA next time.

[rhino]

I know I've said this before, but if you dip the canopy in Klear first, it helps to prevent fogging amongst other benefits.

[ao]

Hi Rhino,

Cheers! I normally use Klear as you suggest, but on this one model, the canopy plastic was of a very flexible type which needed to be bent into place while glue was setting - I was afraid that any Klear may have cracked during such bending.

It's an Italeri Fw-189... takes a fair bit of work this one!

[The Hooded Claw]

Having for many years used Klear on canopies both injection and vacuform I've never had it crack when flexing them into place.

H

[jonny]

Hi, do you tips for removing hardened glue from canopies?

Thank You
Jonny

[Deleted]

jonny said:

Hi, do you tips for removing hardened glue from canopies?

Hello Jonny and welcome to the forum. It depends on what type of glue it is. If it's the old type styrene glue from a tube, soaking in warm water and detergent will soften the glue to a state where it can be lifted off or rubbed down with fine grit wet and dry, and then polished with toothpaste ... yes, toothpaste. It acts as a fine cutting agent, then as suggested earlier in the thread, coat with 'Kleer'.

Removing liquid glue and cyanocrylate (superglue) is a different matter. If you're lucky, simply polishing out the glue will take time but it's not always successful.

[jonny]

Thanks for the reply southsix1. It is the humbrol glue. Blue in colour with the thin metal tube.
Jonny

[Deleted]

Soaking should sufice, although you could try Alfie's trick and put the lot in a container of bleach!