Badgers must be different then, mine are all metal except the needle bearing and I take that out.
Wolfie, well no they are not different they have a rubber "O" ring in the air valve and one day you will get no air through or you wont be able to shut it off cause the valve is stuck. Take mine and Nicks advice never lay or soak the brush in a solvent it doesn't get it any cleaner than squirting a drop of Polyclens through it, that is unless you have chucked paint all over the brush. As for the needle bearing it should not be loose enough to keep removing and should NOT be removed until it wears out plus it is made from teflon so none of the solvents available to us modellers will ever hurt it
I just bury mine in paint stripper every now and again. that shifts everything. And I clean them with pipe cleaners and cotton buds. No problems!
Wolfie, this is what you posted, it's a broad statement, but correct me if I'm wrong, it means that you bury the airbrush in paint stripper? ...
This thread could go round and round, but just because you follow a particular action when cleaning your airbrush, it doesn't necessarily follow that it's the correct way to clean an airbrush, no matter what brush it is, and I still advocate that placing an airbrush into a corrosive substance is not the way to go. With each airbrush, there's a cleaning guide included in the box, if not there's a manufacturers web site and the cleaning instructions for that particular piece of equipment will be available.
I made the mistake some time ago of placing my Badger 200 into a container of mild brush cleanser, if it wasn't for Ted Taylor passing on his advice and experience, it could have been a very expensive mistake. This forum is all about passing on experiences for modellers of all aptitudes, and I think we should all think twice before posting any advice which may inadvertantly prove costly to a novice.
I use an Iwata Revolution and between colours I have a tub of warm water with a dash of fairy liquid or dishwasher powder so it is a little soapy. After tipping out any residue back in the pot I swipe the cup with a wodge of tissue and with the nozzle and cup submerged blow the warm water through the system. After a few seconds I pull it out, wipe it down and its ready to go again.
Once I am finished for the day it is stripped and cleaned with cellulose thinners. One useful item I do use a lot are interdental toothbrushes - perfect for those hard to reach places.
Well I'll tell you what, I'm getting a bit d**n fed up with being attacked every time I post on this forum.
Chris, the very nature of this forum, and any other forum for that matter, is that when folks post, they may just not agree with what's been posted beforehand. It's called having an opinion, and we don't all agree on every subject. I placed an opinion on your post, as did Ted Taylor, we both agree that the way you clean your airbrush is not recommended, the remarks based purely on our own experiences and how you described your method of cleaning.
You clean your airbrush as you see fit, and why not, it's yours, but simply because we don't agree on how you do it, doesn't mean we're having a go, it's purely an exchange of views.
... I won't be posting again on here I'm blooody sick of it.
If that's how you feel Chris, then that's your decision, but you're always welcome on here, your builds have been an inspiration to truck modellers on this forum.
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Jason: Blog updated pop on over to theaveragemodeller.com for a read,
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Uncle sage: Has anybody built the italia 1/72 Wellington. I am in the process I must say the assembly of the front and rear gun turrets is the hardest job iv done on a model in over 40 years I spent hours assembling just 1 turret.
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