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Post by alfie on Oct 23, 2010 12:25:18 GMT
Hi
I'm hoping that some of you learned folk may be able to provide the answer to this query that I've received:
Regards, Alfie
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Post by Loiner on Nov 7, 2012 17:05:42 GMT
I've just had a near mini disaster on a similar scale. Just finished a lovely 1:48 Lightning F6, all painted up, panel lines done, all the numerous decals in place, then gave it the final coat of my favourate satin varnish ... white hazing everywhere - argh!!!
I've had this before with Humbrol matt, and know to be very weary of it, but never had this before with Humbrol satin! It was a new can, not sure if the formula has been changed, or something in the environment made it fail, or maybe I hadn't shaken it up enough, who knows.
I noticed that painting water on the white made it disapear to completely clear, so I saw some hope. I tried a small sample area of the model with various additional coatings to try to get the white to go clear, including other different varnishes, car body wax, and oil. The only one that worked was oil, so tried using engineers grease, which seems to have worked, so I greased it all over and worked it in, and the white has all gone, removed all the excess grease and it just looks a bit like a slightly overglossed satin, not a bad compromise for a near disaster.
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Post by chadders on Nov 7, 2012 17:19:41 GMT
Although its not a problem I've had, I have read on other forums of this happening, and the general concensus was that it was due to moisture in the air, especially if you had clothes drying over radiators etc.
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Post by becker611 on Nov 7, 2012 19:21:24 GMT
Hi Alfie- chadders is correct- spraying solvent based coatings in an environment that is damp will trap moisture under the curing layer of clearcoat- this will create a bloom or haze underneath the coating Also there's what's known as 'solvent pop' which is when the level of thinners to lacquer /pigment is too high or the coat is too thick, the solvent can't fully evaporate through the drying layer and it marks / bursts through the finish. Unfortunately most commercially available spray cans have an incredibly high solvent to laquer / pigment ratio which is necessary to allow it to flow through the can at the low pressure that aerosols work at. You could try a water based clearcoat through a small spraygun if you have a compressor- if not then just try to ensure a dry, warm and well ventilated area and avoid laying down coats too soon after each other where possible Hope this helps
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MikeC
Moderator
Too many SIGs for my own good!
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Post by MikeC on Nov 8, 2012 6:37:30 GMT
This may sound a facetious response, but is not, I offer it in good faith: try a bit of lateral thinking. So long as it's an appropriate setting for the subject, display it on a wintry base and call it frost on the subject - I did this with a Soviet B-25 once.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2012 9:10:11 GMT
Mike, this is spooky, I've just encountered a similar reaction with one of the 'Beyond the Box' builds but rather than remove it all and start again (no time) I've done the next best thing, encorporated it into the build. Sorry if this is digressing from the original post, but Mike's suggestion is worth thinking about!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2012 22:22:20 GMT
This is probably irrelevant, as I tend to use varnish only on very small areas, and I get away with brushing it. I have no problems with jars of Games Workshop gloss, provided that it's fresh. They also used to produce an excellent matt, but it is only available as a spray can now and I haven't used that. I once tried a jar of Tamiya matt, but it dried to a white powder; when I brushed it off, it took the original colour with it.
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MikeC
Moderator
Too many SIGs for my own good!
Posts: 804
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Post by MikeC on Nov 9, 2012 6:20:02 GMT
Not irrelevent at all Malc, I'll file that away for the future, I do like Games Workshop paints, both for their ease of use and for the names (eg "bleached bone", which I'm reliably informed is a perfect match for plain doped linen as seen on WWI aeroplanes).
Re the Tamiya, unfortunately their usage instructions are less than clear, I was fortunate someone told me before I made the same faux pas. Tamiya "Flat base" is not a matt varnish, it's a flatting agent to add to gloss paints - including their clear gloss - to get a matt finish. Varying the amount added, up to a certain point, varies the sheen from satin to dead flat. Add too much, well you've seen the outcome ...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 1:04:51 GMT
Thanks for the explanation, Mike. But bad news on the GW paint names topic: they have recently renamed the entire range, and Bleached Bone is now Ushabti Bone.
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