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Post by alfie on Oct 7, 2007 20:27:43 GMT
I've received the following cry for help from a fellow IPMS modeller. Can anyone offer any suggestions, please?
TIA Alfie
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Post by The Hooded Claw on Oct 7, 2007 20:39:42 GMT
I recommend stopping drawing breath not panicing. Let the mixture you have on it right now stop off for an hour or two. Strip the brush and examin each piece to establish exactly what needs doing. The needle etc SHOULD clean up with a dose of Airbrush cleaner from www.hiroboy.com this is a link to the stuff he supplies www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_66&products_id=1636&osCsid=bfe2a46deaeb919fc0816ccb2f520bb9then a combination of this stuff and a pipecleaner, Swan Vesta market these now try your local newsagent or tabac, will do for the body. I use a 150 for some of my work and find it a bit of a tricky thing to keep clean in some instances this sounds like one of them. Any way patience is the key. Don't try rushing the job an mixing solvents that may just increase your troubles. Ian H
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Post by Thunderjug on Oct 7, 2007 20:41:44 GMT
The question is did he use alcohol to thin it like I did yesterday if so whoops it turns it to sludge. I have found Badger airbrush cleaner cleans just about anything out of there no problem.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2007 20:46:28 GMT
If you're using acrylic, clean the brush out regularly with isopropyl alchohol, don't leave it until the end of the session. I know it's like closing the barn door when the horse has gone but I tend to learn the hard way.
Get hold of some brush cleaner, I use 'Wilko' blue brush cleaner, it's cheap and it works. When I've finished a spray session, I actually pass the cleaner through the brush and leave some in there, then totally evacuate the cleaner before starting the next session.
To clean the bowl, again, trial and error using whatever cleaner suits you, coupled with a mild scouring pad. Invest in a pack of pipe cleaners, and for the tip, soak it in brush cleaner and be totally clinical every time you clean the brush after a session.
Whatever you do, don't completely immerse the body of the brush in cleaner, I did that once and ended up with a pile of sticky goo inside the brush.
Hope that helps!
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Post by panzerpoacher on Oct 7, 2007 20:50:46 GMT
hello there , i found mixing xtracrilix with 50% warm water produces a rock hard finnish and providing you clean the airbrush (spray through) quickly with hot water , it gets everything out , a final blast with cellulose , literally 3 drops at high pressure (out the window) gets rid of any water moisture , preventing oxidation . hope its some help .
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Post by typhoon on Oct 7, 2007 22:01:17 GMT
Did you try the Xtracrylix thinner? That does the job quite well.
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Post by neilscrim on Oct 8, 2007 8:08:16 GMT
Thanks for the suggestions. And thanks to Alfie for posting the question. Now I'm registered I can post direct (thanks Nick!). I thin Xtracrylix with either water or their own thinner. Yeah I once tried thinning with alochol and yes it does turn to a gooey sludge especially with their matt varnish, it nearly ruined the airbrush I use pipe cleaners and I have a system for cleaning which works for me and I've never had any problems cleaning enamels as cellulose works great. Where I'm finding the paint really stubborn is the outside of the final nozzle assembly (where it obviously dries up quickly as you're spraying) and the metal cup, the latter is proving to be a pig. I've tried using water, isopropyl, cellulose and (out of desperation!) acrylic cleaner by Medea, all on their own. I've tried leaving to them soak but nothing really shifts it, left the nozzle in cellulose for an hour (I removed the teflon seal first!) with no joy. As you say, the paint dries rock hard, that seems to be part of the problem. I'm not mixing the cleaners but letting each one dry off before trying the next option. I didn't think Wilco blue brush cleaner would work because it's for oil based paint but I'll give it a go as I've got some. Hot water? Hmm I'll try that. I did think about Xtracrylix thinner but it would be an expensive solution. And....I have to admit to being a stingy old bugger ....it needs to be a cheapish solution to the problem. I've decided to migrate to acrylics so I'll be using a lot of the cleaner. If only cellulose worked....I can buy that in bulk! And finally.... I'll leave with one tip, clean out enamels with Electronic Switch Cleaner (mine comes in a spray can). It's great stuff but unfortunately it doesn't work on acrylic Neil
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Post by Paul Senter on Oct 8, 2007 8:44:07 GMT
This has opened my eyes quite substantially.
I has always pretty fastidious when cleaning out mu airbrush after using enamels, but I only used white spirit, cotton buds and copious amounts of tissue etc. Seems to clean up ok.
I have since started using acrylics (Model Air) and have followed a tip of immersing the cup and nozzle in water and blowing through the airbrush to expel any excess paint, quick strip, wipe off the excess water, reassemble, blow out any droplets and carry on with the next colour.
I had no idea there were so many products available to clean the thing out. Am I doing something wrong?
I have to say I have not have any problems with the airbrush as such although I had a drama this weekend but I think it was to do with me rather than the equipment.
Worried of Essex
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Post by neilscrim on Oct 8, 2007 10:15:09 GMT
Dear Worried of Essex,
For me it seems to be a specific probelm with Xtracrylix, cleaning after spraying with Tamiya acrylic is fine as that cleans out with cellulose.
Whatever system you have, if it works for you then that's good enough. For instance, when I spray enamels I thin with cellulose, that idea scares the hell out of some people but it works perfectly for me. Horses for courses
I'm going to start experimenting with spraying with Vallejo soon, not sure what to clean that out with either. Glutton for punishment?
Neil
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Post by neilscrim on Oct 16, 2007 13:16:53 GMT
An update: Wilko blue brush cleaner (ala Polyclens) doesn't touch xtracylix at all. Neither does Polyclens. I got an email reply from Hannants and someone there uses Cellulose to clean. In that case I wonder whether I've got some crappy cheap mild cellulose... Hot water does work to a degree, I admit to being a bit surprised by this. The real problem is cleaning off the dried paint (usually in the paint cup and the nozzle, where obviously things tend to dry out). The best solution so far for me is to drop the cup in hot water while I clean the airbrush (blowing through with cellulose). I then dry out the cup as far as I can then remove the stubborn paint (in the cup and nozzle) with cellulose, cotton buds and pipe cleaners. However, I've not found anything that will break down the paint by soaking. I've got some acetone somewhere (!), I might give that a go, and get high as a kite at the same time
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Post by Biggles on Oct 16, 2007 18:41:07 GMT
I haven't used Xtracrylix (or whatever they're called), but you might try using household ammonia for cleaning the cup and nozzle. I don't recommend spraying it (for obvious olfactory reasons), but I have found it effective against a variety of acrylic paints, even when they are completely dry and solid. If you can lay your hands on ammonia in a stronger solution, it might work even more effectively.
HTH,
Ian
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Post by prm741 on Nov 19, 2007 23:24:49 GMT
I use LIQUID REAMER from CAMMETT, will clean just about anything. Or maybe a drop or two of Cellulose Thinners?
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Lonewolf
Moderator
Gods Country
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Post by Lonewolf on Nov 24, 2007 18:20:14 GMT
For enamel I use white spirit, for acrylic I use Iso alcohol, and every now and again I attack it with bog standard paint stripper from any auto dealer.
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Post by foxy on Dec 13, 2007 13:03:24 GMT
'Hey', prm701, your right on the Cammet Liquid Reamer, seems to work on any paint spray(old) you want to get rid of.
If hard I leave for a couple of hours, then flush through,seems to work, so does the hot water.
I allways flush through with water as soon as I can. ;D
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