Jim's Spray Painting Discussion

[jwhalen]

Hi Guys,

Seeing as my copy of Issue 2/2011 has hit my doormat I thought I'd better start this thread.

Hope people have found the article useful!

All comments and suggestions are welcome - we are all on this learning curve together after all!

I've posted a second pic of the '32 roadster and a picture of the just completed DBS (last weekend) that were featured in the article below:





Cheers,

[droplink]

If these 2 cars were 1/1, parked outside my house and I was allowed to choose one to keep it would definitely be.....

The 32!

Well done on the build/paint job. It's a corker. The Aston ain't bad either!!

[jwhalen]

Hi Droplink,

Thanks for the comments about the builds.

I've always been in to the American stuff (probably because I grew up in Canada) and I have always liked Porsches as well.

When the fear of turning 40 came along I got myself something I've always wanted - a special car. I've got a 34 Ford coupe and one of the things I like most about having it is how nobody else has one just like it - you see Porsches on the road most days, but how often do you see a hot rod going along?

Getting back to the thread topic, if you've read the article you'll know both these models were sprayed with Zero basecoats and 2-pack clear. If you don't want the hassle of the danger of handling 2-pack clear Tamiya clear is a good choice (and it won't become yellow over white colours with time).

Cheers,

[richardc]

Hi Jim

I really liked your article in the latest IPMS magazine. For me a decent, blemish free gloss coat is one of modelling's holy grails...

What pressures do you recommend for spraying gloss enamels? What about Zero paints?

What's your preferred brand to spray with?

The 32 looks really cool - I am very tempted to have a go at one of these too.

Cheers

Richard C

[jwhalen]

Hi Richard,

Pleased you enjoyed the article.

I usually spray around 30psi for most paints - sometimes less for Alclad (15 to 20).

I'd definitely recommend Zero paints - and they have become my preferred brand for doing bodies and other related parts. There's 3 stages: primer, basecoat and clearcoat. If you're doing a candy paint job there's a basecoat then the candy then clearcoating. 2-pack gives the best shine and dries nice and hard for polishing. Their clearcoat lacquer is good as well but is a bit fussy to work with. I've also heard Gunze Sanzo clear is good as well.

I tend to use Humbrol enamel for other parts (thinned either with their own thinner or Halfords cellouse thinners).

The key really to a good paint job is preparation followed by spraying in mist coats and using a polishing kit when the paint is throughly dry.

The red '32 roadster is kit-bashed from 3 kits and has had various parts detailed, etc. Revell do a lovely series of '32 kits so its easy to swap parts across them. The roadster isn't produced at the moment but you'll find one quiet easily on e-bay - just do a search for Revell 1932 Ford or Revell 1932 Highboy.

Cheers,

[barneyadi]

Hi Jim

I only have a brush with a canned gas supply. Any tips on using it?

Also am i right in thinking that between each coat, primer, colour and varnish that i need to rub down with something called micromesh? What grade should i look for?

Cheers

Dave

[dingo]

droplink ya right but if they where sitting outside my home and I was asked to pick I just say leave the keys to both, I do love the 32 but the aston is a car I've always wanted so please leave the keys to both. Well done on the two models by the jwhalen U've done great.

Dingo

[jwhalen]

Hi Dave,

Its been a long time since I've used canned gas to power my airbrush but they can be a good start to using the airbrush. What you need to remember is that the pressure in the can will go down - and maybe dramatically as you're getting to the end of can.

If you're spraying something really important like the colour or clear coats it'd probably be a good idea to use a new can or at least have a new can to swap to as soon as you notice the paint coming out less consistently. You don't want to waste too much money on cleaning out the airbrush so spray something powerful through it like Hiroboy airbrush cleaner or Halfords cellouse thinners. Then take the airbrush apart and use kitchen towel to clean the parts - remember to wear gloves to protect your skin! The cost of these cans add up so look at the price of some introductory compressors.

I use micromesh 4000 to give the primer a quick smoothing before adding colour. If you are using a basecoat it isn't usually necessary to smooth the paint before adding clear and you generally shouldn't sand metallics. If you're using a colour coat that adds gloss (e.g. humbrol enamels) polish the colour coat - maybe even right up to 12000 before clearing the paint. If you can't get micromesh or a similar polishing cloth system from Wonderland Models Paul at Littecars.com will have something.

Dingo - thanks for the comments about the models. The red '32 roadster recently won the civilian vehicles class at Birmingham Model Expo much to my surprise as it was a high standard in the competition. I'd like the keys to both cars as well since they would be good for very different reasons!

Cheers,