I can recommend Gator Grip glue for PE. Easier to use/clean up than Super Glue and gives you a bit more working time for positioning bits.
IPMS (UK) 9771, MRAeS 1357821
UK Liaison Officer 2006 - 2011 Member and Show Manager: Bolton IPMS Member: IPMS Locate and Cement Leader: Hawk AJT SIG Member: Harrier, Aerobatic, Research and Development Aircraft(Project Cancelled), F-4 Phantom, Photo Recce, NASA, Goth and Australian SIGs.
If you have to bend the PE, and it is not pre coloured, it may help if you anneal it first. This is achieved by briefly holding the part in pair of tweezers over a flam, candle or cigaret lighter will do. As soon as the part reaches a nice red colour (this can happen very quickly so don't over do it or you could melt it) remove from the flame and let it cool naturally, don't dip in water as this will harden it.
Most PE does not need this but it can help if you are having to roll a tube or bend a thick part. Sounds scary but it is easy enough.
As above, Gator Grip glue is great for PE as it dries slowly and gives you time to get the part in the exact position. However, there are times when the speed of Super glue is good.
If the PE is pre coloured (Painted) like seat belts or instrument panels, these usually bend as much as you need without problems. Obviously heating it up will burn off the paint so don't do it.
Sometimes instrument panels are supplied as a photo Etch substitute for painting the plastic part. A good pre coloured PE set of panels for a cockpit can look very effective although flat. If the plastic part has raised detail on the panel, this has to be cut off and sanded flat prior to glueing (Gator Glue is best for this sort of part) to the panel so that the PE sits flat. Like any modelling, dry fit first to make sure everything fits where it should.
For parts like brackets on the outside of an AFV, try to glue these to the plastic before priming or painting. If you don't, it will only be as strong a joint as the adhesive quality of the paint to plastic, very easy to knock them off by accident.
Cutting from the PE sheet (sometimes called a fret) has to be done carefully as you do not want to bend the PE while cutting it out. I tend to use a hard surface like a tile to lay the fret on and then cut with a sharp knife. If you do this on a soft cutting mat, you will bend or distort the part. Some use a small set of scissors to snip them out but I prefer the knife myself.
One attached to the model, remember that the PE is metal, steel or brass, but different to the plastic. This means that priming may not take to the PE as well as the plastic so make sure they get a good coating. This can be a problem with PE mesh, like vent grills on an AFV, as the primer, if too heavy will start to block holes in the mesh.
Sometimes PE is supplied for the sake of it. I am currently building a tank kit where the grab handles are supplied as flat PE, in reality the handles are made from round section steel bar so the flat PE does not look right. They do give me a good guide as to what size to make them from thin wire though. If the PE does not enhance the model, don't waste the time fitting it.
I tend to use 5 minute epoxy for photo etch - especially when attaching parts to painted areas of the model as super glue can fog the paint. I haven't tried Gator grip so I'll have to give it a go.
If you want a photo-etch part to be shiny sometimes polishing it with a fine grade polishing stick is the way to go (have a look at the grille on the red '32 in my painting article in the lastest issue of IPMS (UK) magazine.
Cheap Sunglasses - so dark they don't even know your name.
hi two things I have found useful. Before using your tweezers to grip the PE , stick the points into a candle , the thin coating of wax prevents the superglue sticking the tips together, second to store your single edge razor blade , place it into the long side of your PE bending tool and turn the knob to grip . No searching for it when needed cheers ian
i know at lot about nothing and nothing about a lot
If it's pinging off there can be only one reason, and that is the glue is not keyed into the plastic. I presume that the PE is glued to the plastic and not to a coat of paint. My suggestion would be to clean the PE and the plastic nd re-glue the part. We all have our favourite cyanocrylate but I would suggest a thin super glue and use a spray accelerator.
You may wish to try a more forgiving superglue that allwos for some rough treatment or movement, Loctite do a powerflex gel which is best applioed firstly as a small squirt of it to the bottom of a glass jar then to the e-brass as a small spot from that deposit using cocktail stick, or unfolded paperclip or single strand electrical wire or filed off sewing needle etc etc etc, this glue may help. Also superglue seems to lose its power with time, so try a new pot. Speak to the good people at www.shop4glue.com who specialise in modelling glues and have a vast range of adhesives for engineering and modelling use, including non fogging superglue for canopies, flexi cyano (rubber to plastic rims etc) and more.
Just found this out in my quest for how to glue two brass wires together.
baxter19: hello, I'm a new member recently taken up the modelling hobby to keep my mind active.
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Jason: Blog updated pop on over to theaveragemodeller.com for a read,
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josef: To kfirfae: Maybe late ... I have tutorials for Beaver HC and Allouette Heller
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