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Post by popeye on Mar 14, 2009 10:06:55 GMT
Ju 88 B – part 4 Still using the test clear parts - continuing to adapt upper & front sill lines of the plastic “core”, preparing a “bulkhead” location for the lower gondola to prevent “see trough” from the front and to prepare for a secure location of the gondola part. Also starting to pad the outside front sides of the “insert” with plasticard to get a definitive “sit” and alignment of the clear parts in the horizontal plane. Original location hole for the control column filled – this will have to be moved to the middle and modified.    lower fwd instrument panel on the port side added with part of 88 A-4 instrument board. |
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Post by popeye on Mar 16, 2009 11:24:24 GMT
Ju 88 – part 5 information on detail of the cockpit is almost non existant – I built up the rh front part after two pics yielding an idea of the structure in the lower nose. The seats are fitted temporarely to check height and position. Rear seat will be replaced with kit part, armoured pilot seat is resin aftermarket from AIMS.   |
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Post by popeye on Mar 18, 2009 16:29:53 GMT
Ju 88 B – part 6 While waiting for the resin masters to arrive the fuselage, wings and all smaller components were prepared and glued together, cockpit interior detailed, painted and washed to attain a minimum of effect and the seats fitted. Nothing extraordinary, so no pics here. Also a front overhead instrument panel was fabricated from scrap instrument boards and adapted to the curvature of the inside of the clear cockpit part below the antennae mast. This part will also serve as a (hopefully) secure location for the metal tube antennae mast. The cover for the camera bay behind the bomb bay was prepared by drilling two camera windows of 5 mm diameter, glueing plasticard behind the openings and punching out two “windows” of the same diameter from clear sheet. The recess will be painted dark grey and the clear covers fixed with white glue later on.  |
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Post by popeye on Mar 22, 2009 17:37:14 GMT
Ju 88 B – part 7 Resin masters arrived and modified with vent holes where deemed necessary after some trial vacuum forming.  Clear parts made from 0,5mm sheet (clear PET) with help of homemade suction box, vacuum cleaner & hot air gun.   Clear parts cut from formed sheets, dressed up and test fitted on fuselage front. |
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Post by popeye on Mar 24, 2009 10:55:30 GMT
Upper & lower clear parts were “etched” with acetone on the surfaces to be glued as the PET seemed to resist bonding permanently with almost anything, including superglue. UHU fast two-component epoxy was used for bonding in the end. The antennae was secured in the overhead instrument board with superglue. The unit was fed though the hole prepared and fixed on the inside with UHU. After setting a small bushing was prepared from Evergreen tubing and fitted over the antennae mast, secured with thin superglue.  The resulting gaps between lower & upper parts and in the rear were treated with more UHU, followed by sanding, primer, sanding etc until everything was flush.  The lower MG 131 Z had to be fitted in the rear of the gondola before glueing and was secured temporarely with tubes and Micro Liquitape. |
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Post by johnsheehan on Mar 24, 2009 18:55:59 GMT
Excellent work as always Rolf! Keep it up, it's been a very interesting process.
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Post by COLIN SHIPTON-KNIGHT on Mar 24, 2009 21:30:58 GMT
Rolf,
Same from me, very interesting to see how you do things...
And it looks lovely clean work...... All those glues....
Can you tell me, the canopy frames, are you doing them with decal sheet sprayed the right colour, and then cut and applied...?
Colin
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Post by popeye on Mar 25, 2009 8:50:50 GMT
Colin,
you guessed correctly - for canopy frames I almost exclusively use clear decal film, primed with inside colour twice, followed with several coats of outside coulour.
Clear parts are dipped in Future/Klear.
Strips cut from decal are applied
and after about 2 minutes trimmed where necessary with round scalpel blade,
then treated with Micro Sol to settle the decal down definitively.
Minimum 24 hours after all frames are done I seal with a coat of Klear/Future again.
For cutting strips I use a sheet of Plexiglass as a cutting base, metal ruler and scalpel.
HTH, Rolf
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Post by COLIN SHIPTON-KNIGHT on Mar 25, 2009 19:09:36 GMT
Rolf,
It does give a nice result and you do it so nicely...
I must admit after seeing it when we came over two years ago, I have started using the technique with any 'awkward to paint' lines since.
Indeed some of the Canberra frames were done with it.
One thing I meant to ask, with you having to use a variety of glues and fillers in close proximity to each other, do you find any differences between them when sanding..?
I ask because I have had some that seem to sand at different rates and I end up with sink areas....... If that makes sense.
Keep going this is fascinating.....
Colin
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Post by popeye on Mar 25, 2009 20:15:15 GMT
Colin,
senior moment on my side obviously - didn't recall discussing the topic with you 2 years ago....
But hopefully it was and will be helpful for others who yet have to try this approach.
Re different glues:
I did test all kind of glues with scrap pieces of PET -
UHU epoxy was best, but I suppose any other 5 minute epoxy will work as well.
Advantage of UHU for me - when set it is comparably hard and can be filed and sanded easily.
Final filler used was Mr. Colour Surfacer 1000 applied in several layers with sanding in between.
Rolf
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Post by popeye on Mar 26, 2009 9:04:24 GMT
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Post by johnsheehan on Mar 26, 2009 19:00:21 GMT
Rolf, it's looking superb, can't wait to see it all together, what was the kit you started with?
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Post by sloegin57 on Mar 26, 2009 21:53:30 GMT
I am just sitting here in unashamed awe at a Master Modeller working in 1/72nd.
Rolf - You are a Hero - just like the Spartans against the hord - You keep going in 1/72nd against the wave of 1/48th
More power to your Swiss elbow.
Like it - Like it a Lot !!
(I might be tempted back to the Dark 72nd side - I think)
DR
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Post by popeye on Mar 27, 2009 8:53:56 GMT
Dennis, John, Colin - thanks for acclamation & support - was in fact feeling a bit lonely ;D As John was asking - base kit is Hasegawa 88 R-2. Forgive me for hacking such an expensive kit but it is way above Italeri's 88 in authentic look and details. Onward a decisive step: The nose cupola was the most crucial step. First I had problems to be able to cut out a decent circular frame from decal sheet - no punches of required sizes available, smallest possible setting of compasses wasn't helping in cutting out a "ring".... Nose gun with shell collector and ammo belt had to be fitted before offering up to the nose. After a lot of juggling and fixing temporarely with 3 thin strips of Tamiya tape I applied drops of Poly Zap non fogging CA to secure the cupola in position. More Poly Zap was applied to the join after removing the tape, followed by several applications of Klear/Future to fill the gap as much as possible. I know - should have taken pics on the go but I was holding my breath if I would succeed without spoiling everything....  to be continued after final assembly  Rolf |
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Post by popeye on Mar 29, 2009 9:15:38 GMT
Final post – ready for inspection. Ju 88 B, Hasegawa 1/72nd conversion,
devoted to the memory of Alan W. Hall.
To be able to realize my Ju 88 C-6 (built before this one) I had to resort to some “cross-kitting” of clear parts and bought a Hasegawa Ju 88 R-2 kit as a donor kit, slated for another conversion. In November 2008 the sad news of Alan W. Hall’s demise made me vividly realise what impulse and encouragement in modelling I had been able to benefit by his early “how to” articles in Airfix Magazine and his other publications. This was the impulse to try more than a simple conversion by just switching parts, but rather attempt something more demanding - using his ideas combined with materials and methods available to us modellers nowadays. I hope he would have acknowledged my effort - thank you Alan, for showing the way. ------------------- Conflicting historical data on the Ju 88 B shows some 30 a/c built – probably 10+ of those modified and used for reconnaissance by Kommando Rowehl / ObdL primarily in the East from the end of 1940 until late 1941 before and during operation “Barbarossa” The Ju 88 B was started in 1939 as a private venture by Junkers as a possible replacement to the 88 A but met only with lukewarm interest from the RLM. Compare the fully glazed, aerodynamically clean and modern cockpit with contemporary designs of 1939 and you can see why this forerunner of the Ju 188 of 1943 vintage holds a special place in bomber development. Resources: AJ Press Nr 11, Ju 188 – Ju 388 / Ju 88, Star of the Luftwaffe, Griehl / Vom Original zum Modell, Ju 188, Bernhard & Graefe / Internet / Markings after a picture from „Flugzeug“ 2/85, collection Stipdonk. Paints: Vallejo Air Acryl. Decals from kit and TallyHo 72043 generic letters/numbers.     hope you enjoy, Rolf |
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